Category: Red Wine

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2016 Grenache Noir (Reserve) by Amador Cellars

Tonight’s occasion: 2016 Grenache Noir (Reserve) by Amador Cellars, Plymouth, CA

Summary: Watch this Winemaker closely.

Rich, ruby color. Crisp nose with a subtle tart plums, hints of granite mineral terroir, licorice. Swirl vigorously to release puffs of sweet cherry, and a distant minty/eucalyptus herbal essence so subtle you’d likely miss it all together.

A vibrant crisp body greets with cola, cherries and a suggestion of oak. Thin, crisp tannins provide good structure without overpowering the palate. This combines to create a soft, silky slightly weighty mouth feel with lots of dimension. Transition to finish is characterized by the emergence of a crisp spice which together with the crisp tannins, hold the palate hostage for the duration of the experience while pops of cherry, licorice and cola fade away.

This is a Winemaker who’s work I will be following closely. His work I only simply describe as understated. Creating such complex, layered balanced wines at such an early stage in his journey, one can only imagine what his craft will look like a decade or two from now. I am looking forward to every single vintage…

Nicely done Mike, the Long Family and the entire team at Amador Cellars.

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2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Heritage) by Browne

Tonight’s occasion: Cabernet Sauvignon (Heritage) by Browne Family VineyardsBrowne Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley, Washington.

Deep dark opaque color. Out of the bottle nose is a little shy for a Cab. I was curious to see how the milder climate affects this otherwise big, bold grape. Nose has a good balance of dark, slightly ripe plum. A subtle leather reminiscent of sedimentary terroir. Very faint sawdust and mushrooms linger in the distance. You would almost miss them.

Body is where you can see the difference this region and its climate makes. I expected the bold fruit and aggressive profile typical of a California Cab, but this is not the case. It is very nicely balanced and restrained from front to back. Slightly tart plum is softened by a touch of oak which softens the whole experience giving it a hint of caramel towards the back. Tannins are almost secondary in their expression, providing good structure that almost blends in completely. Transition to finish is fairly seamless and characterized by subtle caramel, black currant, and a slight dry tannic grip which eventually overcomes an otherwise moist palate. A hint of spice lingers for a moment.

This is a gentle Cab with a very broad appeal. I can see it appealing to an intermediate, even beginner palate while still maintaining enough complexity to keep an advanced palate interested. This… is no mean feat.

Nicely done folks! 🍷😁👌🏽

 

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2015 Cabernet Sauvignon by CG DiArie, Shenandoah Valley

Tonight’s occasion: 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Estate) by CG DiArie, Shenandoah Valley, CA.

A slightly restrained but aromatic nose greets out of the bottle. Subdued dark, dry, plum at the front, a touch of dusty, woody, leathery oak, faint tertiary notes of spice, black licorice, and granite very typical of this region. Swirl vigorously to amplify tertiary notes. I love it. It’s rare that a Cabernet shows this much restraint and nuance. As it opens up a hint of sweet cherry emerges in the back.

Body is very nicely balanced, front to back. You are greeted by ripe plums and touch or dark cherry. Measured amount oak softens the body ever so slightly, giving it a nice, almost silky mouth feel that wets the palate almost immediately. Tannins are reined-in on a tight leash. This provides a crisp structure while allowing the other subtle notes room to play on the palate. Impressive. Licorice and granite sandy terroir persist in the background. A gentle spice echoes throughout the experience from nose to finish and down to the chest. Seamless transition to finish leaves the palate dancing between moist and dry as the whole symphony fades away. As it opens up, the cherry becomes more pronounced and black currants make an appearance towards the finish.

I’m smiling. I actually love this Cab. If there ever was a Pinot Lover’s Cab, this would be it. This Winemaker understands how powerful this grape is, has cultivated and mastered it such that he sees no need to submit to its brute nature (as many relent) but rather show how beautiful and nuanced it can be. There are more ways this could go wrong than right. A testament to the winemaker’s skill.

Very nicely done Chaim and the entire Di Arie crew! I look forward to exploring more of your wines! 🍷😁👌🏽

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2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Handal-Denier Vineyard) by Wellington

Tonight’s occasion: 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Handal-Denier Vineyard) by Wellington, Sonoma, California.

This vintage fades into the memories of a few. Part of his final act. A winemaker’s joke upon us all who never rose to the occasion as often as we now wish we did. Every bottle bittersweet. A good wine, like life is not forever…

Dark inky color. Nose is restrained, with lots of big bold dry dark plum, an equally intense dry (sawdust) woody leather takes on a cedarwood essence. Dried herbs linger in the back. As it opens up, an unmistakable black licorice emerges.

Body has a smooth balanced attack that quickly grows intense with massive dry tannins providing a very solid monolithic structure. Cedarwood and a touch of oak move forward to and dress the set. Plum turns to black berries which conspire with a touch of minerality to create black currant and hints of cola.

Body morphs into massive dry finish as tannins, black berries, currant and cola turn to a dark dusty cocoa, leaving lips parched shut.

I believe Pete Wellington’s last vintage was 2013. His legacy lives on at Wellington Cellars

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2016 Resolute by Iron Hub, Amador County, California

Tonight’s occasion: 2016 Resolute (Aglianico) by Iron Hub Wines, Amador County, California.

This region may be known for its Zinfandel, Barbera and others, but I must say, the way Aglianico expresses itself here is more than noteworthy. This Winemaker’s take on the varietal does not disappoint.

Dark rich color. Nose is slightly shy, with intense dark plums and dark cherries. The slightly mineral granite leather typical of this region is unmistakable. Distant notes of berries and a crisp herbal expression linger in the back, reminiscent of minty, eucalyptus freshness.

Body is nicely balanced and greets you with a thick, viscous, slightly weighted, spicy, mouth feel. Reastained acidity makes a delayed appearance while bold crisp tannins provide solid structure. Transition to finish is seamless and characterized by a slightly sweet berry expression, spice heat and enduring tannic grip.

The Resolute is a gorgeous wine. Just like the 2015, this vintage evokes the same sentiments. I love it! I added this wine to the cellar and very much look forward to following its progression.

Nicely done Tom and Beth!

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2006 Anagram (Bordeaux Blend) by Moran Manor

Tonight’s occasion: 2006 Anagram (Bordeaux Blend) by Moran Manor (@moran_manor), Sonoma County, California.

I love an understated wine. This unsuspecting wine isn’t immediately obvious until you take a closer look at the vintage, then take a sip and double-back, realizing this wine is just now showing nicely at 14+ years of age.

Nose is initially shy, revealing an intense but subdued plum, a touch of leather, wet wood and faint spices in the back.

Body is dry, balanced. Bold crisp tannins provide lots of firm structure. Wood notes move forward while plum steps back. Leather fades away and plum takes over the transition to finish characterized by a big bold dry tannic grip on the palate. Subtle hints or black currant, licorice and spices linger on the palate.

This is a Bordeaux style blend made in the traditional style. It is aging very gracefully and showing beautifully right now. A great indicator of the life of this Winemaker’s Anagram signature line. Snag a few bottles of this wine each year and forget about them.

Nicely done!

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2017 Montagñaro by Bella Grace Vineyards

Tonight’s occasion: 2017 Montagñaro by Bella Grace Vineyards (@bgvineyards
), Amador County, California.

This Winemaker is known for many of her amazing wines, most notable of which is her Barbera. However this modest red blend really piqued my interest during my visit. What may come across as an afterthought and value proposition, turns out to be a lovely, layered, pleaser of a wine.

Nose is initially a little shy but quickly reveals plum, vanilla, sweet cherries, and licorice on a granite undertone typical of this region. This is the beauty of a blend. I bought a case, and this is the last bottle. It went quick!

Nicely balanced, medium body greets with vanilla. Dark cherries add moderate tannins, introducing good structure. Sandy, granite mineral leather moves forward, bringing great dimension. Finish turns slightly buttery, revealing hints of pomegranate and spice.

I love this wine! It makes me smile. I love how understated it is. When a great winemaker has a little fun, and blends already great wines, this is what you get – a hidden gem. Do yourself a favor and buy it by the case. Thank me later.

Nicely done Michael and the Bella Grace team! 

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2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Rita Hills) by Roger Roessler Wines

Tonight’s occasion: 2009 Pinot Noir (Clos Pepe – Santa Rita Hills) by Roger Roessler Wines, Sonoma, CA.

Deep clear ruby color out of the bottle. Nose is a little shy with subtle notes of sweet cherry and a touch of berry. Swirling unlocks an unmistakable mushroom leather reminiscent of wet/damp forrest floor on a cold foggy morning. The Santa Rita Hills holds a special place in the heart and I must credit Roger Roessler Wines for introducing this region to me many years ago. This wine has that signature berry expression typical of this region but adds significant terroir characteristics in the form of a rich leather. Clos Pepe is a coveted vineyard and the quality of the fruit shows here.

Body is crisp, clean, perfectly balanced right off the bat. You are greeted by that signature berry typical of the Santa Rita Hills. Medium bodied tannins provide just the right amount of structure. Leather takes more of a back seat. Minerality is more noticeable albeit very subtle and towards the back as it conspires to turn the berries black. This marks the transition to a very gentle, graceful finish, which fades to leave the palate clean, crisp, slightly moist with a distant spice.

This is my last bottle. This wine is absolutely gorgeous. It has had time to integrate and aged gracefully. I cannot think of a more fitting way to end the year – featuring a vintage from the 2020 Winemaker of the Year, Roger Roessler Wines. Thank you for introducing me to so many Pinot from so many different regions.

To the entire crew at Roger Roessler Wines, I wish you a Happy and Prosperous New Year!

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2015 Chinon Bonaventure by Chateau de Coulaine

Tonight’s occasion: 2015 Chinon Bonaventure by Chateau de Coulaine (@chateaudecoulaine), Loire, France.

Warm thick nose out of the bottle with plenty of mushrooms loamy leather. Some call it barnyard or old victorian. Some don’t care for it but I absolutely love it and can’t get enough. It begins to dissipate within minutes to reveal sweet ripe dark cherries, some berry and subtle hints of marshmallow.

Body is more balanced than not with a subtle suggestion of acidity before quickly centering on the palate. Tannins are not as pronounced as one might expect, fairly restrained, allowing a rich meaty mouth feel. Plums replace cherries from the nose and that leathery essence permeates the background. It reads like an impeccably decorated old world set. Subtle spice guides the transition to a finish characterized by gentle tannic grip and warm, moist lips, tingling with spice.

I can only think of a few wines I’ve tasted that express leathery terroir this clearly. It is a sultry wine that feels wise beyond its age. For around $20/btl it’s a head scratcher. Please let me order a few more before it sells out 😅. This my friends is why I stay off the beaten path. Some little known Chateau in Chinon has been making this wine sine the 1300s.

Tres bien fait mes amis! 🍷😁👌🏽

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2015 Pinot Noir (Orchestral) by Hahn

Tonight’s occasion: 2015 Pinot Noir (Orchestral) by Hahn Wines, Santa Lucia Highlands, Central Coast, California. Deep Ruby-Burgundy color. Big rich nose out of the bottle with bold floral aromas, berries and damp wood forrest floor with hints of cedarwood and black licorice. As it opens up and the heat dissipates, notes of citrus make an appearance over a pleasant leather. Body is smooth, mildly acidic. It is characterized by buttery creamy tannins and spice from front to back. This is after all a big California Pinot at 14.5% ABV. It has a fairly lush silky mouth feel which can be deceiving as this wine is fairly dry. Very little, if any fruit is carried over. The leather and wood notes conspire to trick the palate into sensing otherwise. Finish is rather subdued as it quickly fades away leaving more than a healthy tingle of spice. Faint suggestion of black currants accompanies the finale. Hahn is a pretty big estate with many offerings through most mass market distribution. However when visiting such a winery, you have to know what to ask for. See, every winemaker no matter how big, has a passion project. One they pride themselves in. A work of personal craftsmanship which is typically never on the menu. This is what I am most interested in with any winemaker. Only 73 cases of this lovely Pinot were produced. The layering, character and complexity shows. This is the type of wine I seek out wherever I go. Nicely done Hahn!
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