2023 Winemaker of the Year

For what do we live if not for our dreams, our passions, our bliss – and if for nothing, then let it simply be for the opportunity to pursue and manifest them – against great odds, stiff currents the test of time? For those tenacious enough, the journey is the greatest reward. Behind the results, accolades and accomplishments hides the sweetest reward – the steady, realization and quiet manifestation of one’s life’s dream and work before their own eyes, decades in the making.

For most of us, we celebrate the end-result – great wines!

Every time I open one of Cindy’s wines, I am overwhelmed by thoughts of the past four years of her journey alone, watching from the sidelines as she puts out small batches of perfection. Quietly obsessing over every last detail. It is then that I realize, this truly is her passion, bliss and life’s dream she is sharing with us all.

Every year I think of a winemaker who’s work I’ve been following closely. A winemaker who’s work has influenced me, contributed to my journey through wine. A winemaker who’s dedication to excellence is inspiring.

Our 2023 The Winemaker of the Year is Passaggio Wines. Cindy’s execution is precise, nuanced, balanced, and faithful while crafting her own interpretations of varietals that often times offer cause for pause and reflection. I very much look forward to many more vintages of Cindy’s wines.

Thank you for all great wines!

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Serendipity, Providence: In Bangkok with Roger Roessler

Something really cool happened recently. I was on my way to Bangkok, Thailand – my first time – when all of a sudden, while waiting for my flight out of San Francisco, a post by Roger Roessler popped up in my feed. He was making a quick trip to Bangkok from Vietnam (where he spends most of his time these days).

I jumped on the phone before we were airborne and told him I was on my way. Between San Francisco, Taipei and Bangkok, we sorted our schedules and itineraries out and settled on meeting up at Jack’s Bar on the river. Wherever I go, Roger always has the coolest recommendations and stories to go along with.

If the name sounds familiar, that’s because Roger Roessler Wines was my Winemaker of the Year for 2020. Think of Roger as a Vintner who through Roger Roessler Wines, curates among others, a compendium of Pinot Noirs from all over the pacific coast. His wines and passion have played a big role in my journey through wine, especially my love for and fascination with Pinot Noir. Before going into winemaking over two decades ago, Roger built a long and storied career as a restaurateur, opening dozens of restaurants across the country – his first at age 21. The wealth of knowledge and experience makes Roger one of the most interesting people in my world today. I would sit and sip with Roger any day.

Jack’s Bar is a shack, that sits on the river right next to the Shangri La. The juxtaposition is hilarious, but this is Bangkok after all. They do maintain a decent wine list. We settled on a Pinot Noir from Cassablanca Valley, Chile by Veramonte, chilled of course.  Great wines, good eats and an amazing staff!

What a great first day in Bangkok, Thailand!

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Guest Review: 2017 Le Petit Clos by Clos Apalta, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile

South American wines are perhaps the best Bang for your Buck deals in the world, especially from Argentina, Chile, and now Uruguay. It seems to be expected that a $20 bottle of wine will drink like a $30-40 bottle.

However it is rare to find a $50 bottle (42.99 on Vivino right now!!) that drinks like a $100 bottle.

Folks, meet the Clos Apalta Les Petit Clos.

Perhaps the best quality winery in all of Chile, their flagship wine is approximately $150 and has scored 100 points twice from James Sucking (if that matters to you).

This 2nd wine they make is just as unique and amazing as their flagship. Les Petit Clos is always a Bordeaux blend that includes the infamous Chilean Carmenere – this 2017 blend was the following:

68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Carmenere, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot.

👁️: dark Ruby red, bordering on purple.
👃: blueberry compote and herbs
👅: again, big time blueberry black currants, and herbs. Huge tannins out of the bottle – needed a good hour+ to mellow out. But boy, did this wine deliver well above its price point. Tannins mellowed out a bit, but they were somewhere short of being grippy. The finish is just flat out insane and smooth for being a wine under $100.

Overall this is a stunning wine. The fact that it was mostly Cabernet with a bit of Carmenere is crazy, given how well the herbs showed through on the backend of the fruit.

It also amazes me, because this might easily be the best Chilean wine under $100…. With its big brother being the best Chilean wine period (competes with the Almaviva, imho).

As much as I love the Purple Angel, I think i prefer the structure and Bordeaux-Esque complexity of this wine more.

About our guest


I’m Eric the guy behind @aboveavgbro wine page. Based in Texas, originally from New England, I became a winesnob over the years as I found myself consuming less for quantity, and more for quality. I can appreciate a good $20 bottle of wine so long as it is memorable and creates an experience for those tasting it.


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2013 Enclave (Cabernet Sauvignon – Maipo Valley) by Ventisquero, Chile

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Enclave – Maipo) by Ventisquero Wine Estates, Chile

We’ve looked at the Enclave before. After several years now, your feedback has only reinforced my thoughts about this wine.

It is a Cabernet Sauvignon without flaws. I have tried to find the slightest thing about this wine that could perhaps be better or make it even better but I can’t. Every time I open one I end up thinking this belongs in a textbook on how you build a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ventisquero Wine Estates is our 2022 Winemaker of the Year and the Enclave sits at the very top of an impressive lineup of evocative wines. A passion project. Head winemaker Felipe Tosso and his team’s attention to every detail really shines here.

If you haven’t already explored their wines, I highly recommend you take a look. They will likely give you pause.

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2019 Grenache by Sierra Vista, El Dorado CA

2019 Grenache by Sierra Vista Vineyards and Winery, El Dorado CA

Deep ruby color. Out of the bottle the air fills with bright berries. Strawberry, raspberry, and red cherries over a backdrop of damp hay, herbs and sweet tea.

Body shows good balance, greeting the palate with a touch of sweet citrus. This draws good tension across a soft, silky if not creamy body of raspberries and cranberries. A subtle sweet vanilla caramel softens an otherwise dry body, elevates the fruit and rounds out crisp, fully integrated tannins. Well played. Hints of spice warmth accompany the experience. Lips are rendered parched in a long dry finish for a Grenache.

Overall a subtle, nuanced wine. Great composition and restraint while remaining approachable to a broad spectrum of palate. I recently had the pleasure of tasting with winemaker Ryan. His style is a bit of a departure from the norm in the region. I look forward to exploring his wines with you. Check them out!

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2014 Syrah (Pangea) by Ventisquero Wine Estates, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile

2014 Syrah (Pangea) by Ventisquero Wine Estates, ChileWine Estates, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile

Felipe and his team of prolific winemakers are quietly putting out wines of head scratching quality, complexity and fidelity, down in Chile. You have to taste for yourself.

Dark semi opaque color. Uncorking releases a punch of ripe fruit aromas. Ripe plums, blueberries and blackberries up front, intertwined with a sweet cedarwood essence reminiscent of Japanese cedar. Granite rocky leather lingers in the back. A subtle bright freshness permeates the stage, closest thing I can think of is sweet minty herbs.

The nose and color are deceiving as this wine does a double-take, pulling back considerably. A medium-light body greets, balanced right down the middle with slightly dry plums and blackberries. Fully suspended fine grained dusty tannins begin precipitating upon the palate immediately, building up thick layers of dusty, chewy grit. Mid-way through a warm spice emerges and slowly builds up to an eventual crescendo in the finish. A thick, weighted mouth feel accompanies the whole experience till the very end, eventually leaving the palate slightly parched, gripping and tingling.

This is a well executed Syrah. I’m not the least surprised, coming from our 2022 Winemaker of the Year. Winemaker Felipe Tosso and his team deliver a fine example of what so great about this region. I recently toured this Vineyard with Angel, the Viticulturist (Ranger of Apalta) last month. I recognize it’s sense of place. Both Felipe and Angel’s synergies really shine here.

Bien hecho amigos!

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2005 Barbaresco (Roncaglie) by Poderi Colla, Alba, Italy.

2005 Barbaresco (Roncaglie) by Poderi Colla, Alba, Italy (DOCG).

Slightly maroon color. Nose is a little shy. Up front slightly under-ripe dark plum, old damp wood leather. In the back, a subtle honeycomb beeswax. As it decants, subtle caramelization adds a touch of ripeness and cocoa.

WOW! Body is very firm up front. Bold attack greets in the form of under-ripe plum and red apple skins. This brings with it, fully integrated, fine grained dusty tannins that grip almost immediately, progressively tightening their vise grip over the palate with each sip. As it breathes, the acidic punch softens into a gentle yet still firm tension across the palate from front to back. Mouth feel is dry, and leathery. Weight is medium-heavy for a Barbaresco. Somewhat bright. Hints of spice linger but none can match the sheer dominating and overpowering force of the tannic grip. Lips are parched shut. As it breathes, some of those tannins caramelize nicely to lend a subtle punctuation of sweetness in the vast dryness of its expression. This has the effect of elevating and ripening the fruit, especially plum. Hints of cocoa develope so faint you’d likely miss it.

Wow. I thought this Nebbiolo might be over the hill but boy was I wrong. It is still standing tall and strong after 17 years. This is an exquisitely crafted wine every cellar should have. This is my last bottle and I sorely wish I had more. I have had a hard time finding this wine for years now. A solid Barbaresco for the Advanced Palate.

Molto Bene! 🍷😙👌🏽

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2020 Garnacha by Lechuza, Spain

2020 Garnacha by Lechuza, Spain

Another great wine recommendation from one of you!

Clear, purple-ruby color. Bright nose with prominent crisp ripe red berries, red cherries, over a dusty hay leather. Secondary notes of beeswax and rose petal perfume linger in the background. Swirling vigorously intensifies the floral notes. Pretty!

Slightly firm ripe body greets with a touch of tension and burst of ripe berries and cherry. Mouth feel is fuller than expected, smooth, and a slight touch fruit forward. A old damp barnwood joins the party shortly after along with and every more boisterous dusty fine grained tannic grit and warm spice. Soon after, the ones left – a dry grip on simmering, parched lips.

This is a very respectable party wine. I like it!

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2020 Nebbiolo by Cantine Elvio Tintero, Langhe, Piemonte, Italy

2020 Nebbiolo by Cantine Elvio Tintero, Langhe, Piemonte, Italia

Bright, clear ruby-purple color. You get that rocky slightly dusty leather essence up front typical of this region. Nose is very shy overall. As it breathes a smoky tobacco emerges. Subtle berries linger in the back. Swirling vigorously intensifies the tobacco leaf. How is this a 2020 vintage??

Body is nicely balanced. Upfront crisp dark plum skins greet the palate with a subtle tension. This tension quickly relaxes as the already medium body thins and stretches out opening up for a good dose of oak vanilla. Plum turns to raspberry, oak softens what would otherwise be a very dry, lean, masculine expression. Fully integrated tannins begin to precipitate upon the palate in thin layers of coating grip which endures through the finish. Gentle spice warmth lingers. My lips are parched.

On the spectrum of Nebbiolo (especially from Langhe), this falls on the lighter side. It is arguably a chillable red. Nicely composed, mature execution, and built to be enjoyed now. This reminds me of the Nebbiolo by Haarmeyer. It shows a much more approachable side of this varietal.

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2021 Albarino by Bodegas La Caña, Rais Baixas, España

2021 Albarino by Bodegas La Caña, Rais Baixas, España.

Rais Baixas as is situated in the Galicia region of northwest Spain.

Bright floral aromatic nose with notes of jasmine, peach, nectarines and sweet citrus. Very pleasant.

Body is nicely balanced. That sweet Meyer lemon zest really pulls forward, drawing a mild tension and lending a little body to a smooth mouth feel. Slightly under-ripe peaches, white plums are followed by a decent amount of minerality that coats the lips in increasingly moist layers. This defines the finish. Warm, moist lips.

This is a nice, well executed Albarino. For the price, an exceptional value and if you’re like me, can’t think of a better introduction to Basque Wine Country. Bien hecho!

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