In vino veritas. In vino sanitas.
February 18th is Global Drink Wine Day. Did you celebrate? I know I did! My friend Kristal stopped by to help. We celebrated by opening a Cab from Chile. How did you celebrate? What did you open? Let me know in the comments below. I highly recommend sipping along while watching as we taste and make small talk about different wines we’ve tried.
Tonight’s occasion: 2013 Syrah by Skinner Vineyards, El Dorado, California.
Dark opaque color. Popping the cork releases a bouquet of dark berries and herbal essence. Eucalyptus and mint comes to mind. As it settles, a heavy tart plum is accompanied by a touch of sweet cherry. Secondary leathery granite terroir quickly makes its presence known. Swirl vigorously and unlock a burst of star anise unmistakable with this greater region. It is particularly reminiscent of a sweet Absinthe and lingers in the background. I love this. As you swirl, the nose turns sweeter.
Heavy, viscous, dark plum dominates the body. Firm acidity and bold tannin go hand in hand. Neither yielding to the other. Body is bone dry. Woody, berry, and earth notes combine to create a soft slightly creamy overtone. One of my favorite Snobs, Guy (@wine.alchemy | FootHillsWino) best describes it as Bacon Fat. Massive, deep rooted, fine grained tannins permeate the entire experience. Transition to finish is fairly seamless as tart plums cede to a relentless dry, dusty tannic grip. Black currants and a smoldering heat are all that is left to see your palate off on its journey to its long dry finish in the desert.
Skinner makes some of the best Syrah in my cellar. I keep several cases of various vintages as reference wines. They serve as fine examples of mature, well built, wines from the Sierra Foothills. I highly recommend Skinner for the intermediate to advanced palate especially. This 2013 is just now coming of age and should show especially well over the next 5 years and beyond.
Well done Skinner!
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Tonight’s occasion: 2012 Petite Syrah by Loxton Cellars, Sonoma, California
Dark opaque color. Nose is a little shy out of the bottle but quickly comes alive with ripe plum, blackberry, caramel and that all too familiar Sonoma Dirt. A wet mushroom leathery essence. It’s a bit subdued here but still very present. Swirl vigorously to release a burst of dark cherry, anise and hints of green peppers.
A viscous, spicy, slightly acidic attack greets the palate. This rapidly subsides as crisp, clean tannins move in front and center. Hints of oak vanilla soften the blow, temporarily wetting the palate. By the halfway point, the fun and games are over as a dry crisp tannic grip, black currant and cola completely dominate the experience. This marks the transition to a finish, turning even dryer. The palate experiences a brief sweet relief as black currant and cola give way to a long spicy dry finish.
My goodness this is a massive wine yet surprisingly nuanced. It feels very natural, terroir driven and unaltered. I thought it might be a good time to open 2012 vintage but dare I say, it’s still early. Chris Loxton has been quietly and meticulously crafting his life’s work from the vines to the wines. One of my favorite Sonoma winemakers, I’ve been enjoying his wines for at least a decade. Every time I open a bottle, I wonder if I bought enough…
Nicely done Chris Loxton! Cheers Mate!
Tonight’s occasion: 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cloud’s Nest, Mt. Veeder) by Trinchero Family Wines, Napa Valley, California
Dark opaque color. Nose is very shy out of the bottle. Once it breathes a little, you can recognize ripe plums. Sweet dark cherry caramel comes second. Out of the bottle, hints of red licorice and amber wood dot the background. These quickly dissipate as it opens up. Terroir is fairly neutral and if anything, is expressed as a faint woody leather.
Body is perfectly balanced from attack to finish. Ripe, plums, dark cherries and blueberries play nicely on the palate. This conspires with a touch of wood/oak to create a slightly silky, weighted, wet mouth feel. Dusty, fine grained tannins provide an ever present substructure. Eventually the body gives way to expose this dusty tannic underlayment. This marks the transition to finish as dry spicy tannic dust storm engulfs the palate. Black currants, caramel make sporadic appearances as spice and a dry tannic grip wrestle for control. This duel continues with no end in sight for a very long protracted finish.
This wine may not be so old after all. It has had time to integrate. As it opens up, it comes even more alive as opposed to mellowing out. At 13 years old, I feel like this is how it was meant to be enjoyed. Here’s a little secret: if you visit Trinchero, ask for the list of library wines. Explore your favorite wine and how it progresses.
Nicely done Trinchero!
Tonight’s occasion: 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Root 49) by Naggiar Vineyards, Sierra Foothills, California
Dark opaque color out of the bottle. Rich dark plum essence on the nose. A granite rocky mineral essence comes second. Swirling vigorously unlocks a burst of sweet, dark cherry and red vines licorice as a distant leather disappears into the background. Notes are crisp, unmistakable, and very highly delineated.
Body is precisely balanced from attack to finish. Fruit carries through, and is well represented without overwhelming the palate. Oak is measured, almost unnoticeable as it conspires with dark plum and berries to create a slightly silky mouth feel. 
This has the effect of taming this fairly dry wine. Firm tannins provide broad structure across the palate while remaining fairly restrained. Transition to finish is marked by a the unleashing of massive tannins that, in short order, completely dominate the palate, revealing its relative youth. Blackberries and currants linger as an ever tightening grip seals your lips shut, parched. At 14.7% ABV you would hardly notice but for a slightly bold spice towards the finish which easily dissipates as it opens up. A testament to the winemaker’s craft.
This is a big bold Cab by all accounts. It is full of character, balanced and shows a good amount of restraint. It will only become more interesting as it further integrates over the next 5-10 years. This is a winemaker to watch closely. Well built, impeccably executed wines.
Very nicely done Naggiar Vineyards!
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Tonight’s occasion: 2016 Pinot Noir (Grey – Glacier) by Ventisqero, Leyda Valley, Chile.
Dark semi opaque color. Out of the bottle you are greeted by a rich aromatic nose with notes of ripe plums, and an earthy leather reminiscent of loamy sedimentary terroir and wet wood. Swirl vigorously to release a burst or sweet cherries and an even more intense leather. Hints of mushrooms and black licorice linger in the background. What a beautiful nose.
Body greets with a slightly acidic attack. This is quickly smothered by a silky, velvety body of slightly tart plum and a touch of oak. This lends a mouth watering character. Subtle tannins provide a low level foundation and structure. No sooner than it arrives, the body quickly fades away quickly transitioning to a thin whispy silky sheets in the wind. This is where the previously understated tannins take over, eventually leaving the palate slightly parched and under a firm but gentle tannic grip. Random tinglings of spice punctuate the finish.
First order of business when I land in Chile is to visit this Winemaker. I absolutely love their work. Very well crafted, artisan wines. This Pinot punches several classes above its weight. Like every one of their wines I’ve tried, it makes no compromises.
Bien hecho amigos!
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You can access Ventisquero wines directly from the Ventiquero Wine Club website as well as on wine.com, both linked below.
https://ventisquerowineclub.com
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Tonight’s occasion: 2017 Elle (Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault) by Bumgarner, El Dorado, California.
Crisp nose is a little shy out of the bottle. First thing that hits you is a dry dusty granite with a hint of old weathered wood. Intertwined are hints of berry and faint vanilla. Swirl vigorously to unlock a burst of sweet cherries, more dusty leather and very distant mushrooms, you would easily miss.
Body is very nicely balanced front to back. It is mostly dry, subtle cherry carries forward, together with the wood notes and a sparing amount of oak, all conspire to create a slightly silky, lush mouth feel, moistening the palate. Thin crisp tannins provide great structure and grip. The granite, minerality, cherries and leather morph into a cola essence towards the back. This marks the transition to finish as a crisp dry tannic grip eventually triumphs over the experience, leaving your lips parched shut.
I previously reviewed the Fiona, a companion/sister wine to this one. I have followed this Winemaker for well over a decade. He is no stranger to big, bold, dark, dry, structured wines. However this wine is clearly an exercise in nuance and subtlety. I really like what he has done here. This is a very well built, high quality, understated wine.
To Brian and Jennifer Bumgarner, thank you for sharing your dreams and passion with us. Here’s to many more vintages.
Tonight’s occasion: 2016 Grenache Noir (Reserve) by Amador Cellars, Plymouth, CA
Summary: Watch this Winemaker closely.
Rich, ruby color. Crisp nose with a subtle tart plums, hints of granite mineral terroir, licorice. Swirl vigorously to release puffs of sweet cherry, and a distant minty/eucalyptus herbal essence so subtle you’d likely miss it all together.
A vibrant crisp body greets with cola, cherries and a suggestion of oak. Thin, crisp tannins provide good structure without overpowering the palate. This combines to create a soft, silky slightly weighty mouth feel with lots of dimension. Transition to finish is characterized by the emergence of a crisp spice which together with the crisp tannins, hold the palate hostage for the duration of the experience while pops of cherry, licorice and cola fade away.
This is a Winemaker who’s work I will be following closely. His work I only simply describe as understated. Creating such complex, layered balanced wines at such an early stage in his journey, one can only imagine what his craft will look like a decade or two from now. I am looking forward to every single vintage…
Nicely done Mike, the Long Family and the entire team at Amador Cellars.
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Tonight’s occasion: Cabernet Sauvignon (Heritage) by Browne Family VineyardsBrowne Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley, Washington.
Deep dark opaque color. Out of the bottle nose is a little shy for a Cab. I was curious to see how the milder climate affects this otherwise big, bold grape. Nose has a good balance of dark, slightly ripe plum. A subtle leather reminiscent of sedimentary terroir. Very faint sawdust and mushrooms linger in the distance. You would almost miss them.
Body is where you can see the difference this region and its climate makes. I expected the bold fruit and aggressive profile typical of a California Cab, but this is not the case. It is very nicely balanced and restrained from front to back. Slightly tart plum is softened by a touch of oak which softens the whole experience giving it a hint of caramel towards the back. Tannins are almost secondary in their expression, providing good structure that almost blends in completely. Transition to finish is fairly seamless and characterized by subtle caramel, black currant, and a slight dry tannic grip which eventually overcomes an otherwise moist palate. A hint of spice lingers for a moment.
This is a gentle Cab with a very broad appeal. I can see it appealing to an intermediate, even beginner palate while still maintaining enough complexity to keep an advanced palate interested. This… is no mean feat.
Nicely done folks! 🍷😁👌🏽
Tonight’s occasion: 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Estate) by CG DiArie, Shenandoah Valley, CA.
A slightly restrained but aromatic nose greets out of the bottle. Subdued dark, dry, plum at the front, a touch of dusty, woody, leathery oak, faint tertiary notes of spice, black licorice, and granite very typical of this region. Swirl vigorously to amplify tertiary notes. I love it. It’s rare that a Cabernet shows this much restraint and nuance. As it opens up a hint of sweet cherry emerges in the back.
Body is very nicely balanced, front to back. You are greeted by ripe plums and touch or dark cherry. Measured amount oak softens the body ever so slightly, giving it a nice, almost silky mouth feel that wets the palate almost immediately. Tannins are reined-in on a tight leash. This provides a crisp structure while allowing the other subtle notes room to play on the palate. Impressive. Licorice and granite sandy terroir persist in the background. A gentle spice echoes throughout the experience from nose to finish and down to the chest. Seamless transition to finish leaves the palate dancing between moist and dry as the whole symphony fades away. As it opens up, the cherry becomes more pronounced and black currants make an appearance towards the finish.
I’m smiling. I actually love this Cab. If there ever was a Pinot Lover’s Cab, this would be it. This Winemaker understands how powerful this grape is, has cultivated and mastered it such that he sees no need to submit to its brute nature (as many relent) but rather show how beautiful and nuanced it can be. There are more ways this could go wrong than right. A testament to the winemaker’s skill.
Very nicely done Chaim and the entire Di Arie crew! I look forward to exploring more of your wines! 🍷😁👌🏽
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