2017 Viognier, by Skinner Vineyards, Fair Play, California

Tonight’s Occasion: 2017 Viognier (El Dorado), by Skinner Vineyards, Fair Play, CA Peach, cantaloupe, subtle honeysuckle, faint strawberry over a granite leather underlayment. Swirling vigorously intensifies the nose especially the peach and cantaloupe which turns slightly sweet. Leather develops a mineral character. Beautiful! Light body is precisely balanced right down the middle, front to back. Greeting with not so much as a suggestion which gently reveals a soft, plush somewhat creamy mouth feel. Stone fruit and cantaloupe carry forward ever so slightly. It is fairly dry but a masterful play between crisp caramel, mineral leather and citrus create a pleasing effect. Transition to finish seamless as body slowly fades into the sunset leaving the palate slightly dry, under a gentle spice heat. You’d likely miss it but there’s a sweet nutty after taste, not unlike coconut and walnut. It’s very faint. I just love it when visiting a winery and the first wine you are greeted with is a wine of this caliber and finesse. That’s what caught me about this wine. For me, Skinner Vineyards is a solid reference for the region and California at large. You won’t find any compromises here. I love what they are doing. Winemaker Adam Smith brings a complementary perspective to the region. You cannot go wrong with Skinner. A Vineyard and organization with a great story, people behind it. Always a treat! To the entire team at Skinner, Thank you! Explore more Skinner wines on WineSnob.
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WineSnobTV: Off The Beaten Path – Bumgarner Winery

Today Off The Beaten Path we are looking back in retrospect. We pay a visit to one of my all-time-favorite winemakers. I have been following Brian Bumgarner’s work for well over a decade now. His wines are some of the longest lived, oldest vintages in my cellar.

I spent the day chatting with Brian at their Estate, getting caught up and filling in the blanks on his story and journey up to that point. It was an honor, distinct pleasure and I am thrilled to take you with me.

This is a long form, free-flowing conversation. I recommend opening a bottle (I recommend, Bumgarner wine), kicking back and following along. I have added time-stamps below to help you navigate or skip ahead:

00:15 – Intro and background
03:58 – The beginning, chat with Brian Bumgarner
13:40 – Bumgarner Estate
17:08 – Winery dog Figgy
17:20 – A family business
19:09 – Greece and the journey through Europe
21:46 – What I love about Bumgarner Wines
22:26 – A look at 2018 Alicante Bouschet
23:56 – The story of Alicante
25:50 – Tasting notes
27:14 – Bumgarner Apple Cider
28:55 – Bumgarner Bumbly
30:28 – Always relishing the New
31:50 – 2020 Harvest
33:05 – The Pandemic and aftermath
34:49 – Reinventing and adapting to adversity
37:54 – Artisanal production
39:49 – Winemaking is challenging
40:46 – Exploring older vintages
46:54 – Walking the Semilion
51:00 – Walking the Sauvignon Blanc
51:30 – New graftings
52:50 – Aerial views of the Estate
53:25 – Sunset views with Brian Bumgarner
53:35 – My thoughts in closing
55:03 – A look at the 2016 Tempranillo

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Sierra Midnight (Lot #1) by Windwalker

Tonight’s Occasion: Sierra Midnight – Lot #1 by Windwalker, Fair Play, CA.

Dark opaque color. Thick aromatic nose out of the bottle with firm notes of dark plum, sawdust and a subtle but unmistakable tangerine peel. I remember while barrel tasting with Zach this spring, owner Jim opened one for us to try, this one note was haunting. We both obsessed over it for a while until we finally pinned it down – tangerine skins with a distant hint of all spice. As it breathes a soft licorice emerges, this wine’s sense of place. It only intensifies from here on.

Big, bold and beautiful. The body greets with a thick, somewhat viscous, silky if not slightly chewy mouth feel. Big fruit, matches bold fine grained dusty tannic structure. Ripe dark plums, blackberries and blueberries dominate. A subtle old wet wood leather permeates the entire experience. Gentle spice emerges midway, slowly intensifying through the finish. Transition to finish is seamless, ending with a slightly creamy, dusty, enduring tannic grip and spice heat.

Unshackled from time, this unique signature cross-vintage blend is an exercise in shunning the rules of rigid conventional thinking. Why not? Lot #1 is the first of its kind by this winemaker. After 10 or more years it has had time to integrate very nicely. Layers blend and transition together nicely. It is showing really well. It makes no apologies and embraces what this region is all about.

If you can get your hands on any of the Sierra Midnight lots, I highly recommend you lay them down for at least 10 or more years.

Nicely done Jim, Zach, Ryan and the entire crew at Windwalker.

2019 D’Oro (Riserva di Vermentino) by Via Romano

Tonight’s Occasion: 2019 D’Oro (Riserva di Vermentino) by Via Romano, Sierra Foothills, CA

Rich aromatic nose. A bouquet of tropical fruit. I pick up notes of passion fruit, pomegranate, citrus, mild honeysuckle and an underlying mineral leather that greets the palate initially but quickly falls back as soon as you swirl vigorously. The nose is this wine’s hallmark. Massive, colorful, intense, beautiful.

The body is light. In complete juxtaposition with the nose. Smooth. Balanced from start to finish. A viscosity in the mouth feel. A light sweet citrus carries over, like Meyer Lemon as well as faint pomegranate. Subtle minerality has a slight palate wetting effect. White pepper emerges midway and gently frames a graceful, slightly dry finish that slowly fades off the palate.

This winemaker’s reds, particularly his Primitivo and Fiasco, have been my biggest distractions from exploring his whites. They are just as fun, dry, light, almost playful, light hearted and full of expression. If you’re ever in the El Dorado area, plan on spending some time at their tasting room. Take a few hours to go through both flights of red and white. You won’t be disappointed.

Molto bene Jon! 🍷😁👌🏽

2020 Torrontés (Alta Mesa) by Lewis Grace

Tonight’s occasion: 2020 Torrontés (Alta Mesa) by Lewis Grace, Placerville, California.

Pretty aromatic nose out of the bottle with vibrant notes citrus, honeysuckle, white cranberries and white plums. Has a slight viscosity to it. There is distant hint of minerality, so faint you’d likely miss it.

Body is dry, soft with a plush, silky, slightly weighted and luxurious mouth feel. Faint viscosity carries through from attack to finish. Expression is thin, light and wispy. Citrus carries through in the form of an unmistakable Mayer Lemon. Dry stone fruits linger in the background. There is a very faint tannic structure to the body it could almost be missed. Transition to finish is seamless ending in a light dry tannic grip and gentle warm spice heat. As it opens up and the palate adapts, the subtle minerality has a subtle palate wetting effect.

Well WineSnobs. I found another Gem Off The Beaten Path. This is a treat of a wine. A white wine at that. It is different, unique by all accounts. An unconventional expression. A very interesting varietal I have never had before. This wine is certainly worth exploring by all palates.

Very nicely done Lewis Grace!

2019 Grenache by Windwalker Vineyard, Somerset CA

Tonight’s Occasion: 2019 Grenache by Windwalker Vineyard, Somerset CA

Beautiful clear ruby color. Out of the bottle nose is a little shy with notes of damp wood and cherry cola. Swirling vigorously unlocks a burst of cherry cola and slightly mineral leather. Faint hints of anise linger in the back. This is El Dorado after all.

Body is more viscous than it looks, greeting the palate with good balance. Restrained acid and subtle tannins in the form of dark, slightly ripe cherries are married together by a refined caramel creating a pleasant silky mouth feel. This quickly dances across a fairly unobtrusive structure, and gives way to a slightly bitter backdrop of cola and wet granite contrasted only by a crisp caramel that lingers on the palate. This marks the transition to a swift finish ending in a slightly moist yet dry palate and spontaneous ignition as gentle but firm heat re-emerges from deep within.

This is my newest favorite winemaker! His style mixes the bold and brash of the classic foothills with a touch of sophistication and daring. Starting pouring wine in the tasting room at a very young age and working his way to winemaker a few years ago, he reminds me of many of the top winemakers I’ve been following for over a decade. This is one to follow closely. This Grenache makes a strong statement.

Nicely done Zach and the entire crew at Windwalker.

Read more about this winemaker on WineSnob

2018 Fiasco (Red Blend) by Via Romano, El Dorado County

Today’s occasion: 2018 Fiasco (Red Blend) by Via Romano, Sierra Foothills, CA

I give up. I was never meant to review this wine. Several times I have gone up the hill and come down with more of this wine. Each time with full intention of reviewing it on here. Every time I have failed. I brought back a case last time. It’s gone!

It vanishes so fast I never seem to get around to doing a focused tasting. This is the closest I have come – taking pictures. Moments after taking this picture, friends showed up. I figured they will all help me review it. I poured everyone a glass and that was the end of it.

Not all wines have to be superlative. This wine isn’t. But some wines are just so pleasant and enjoyable to sip, they go completely unnoticed. This is one of them. Smooth, light, creamy, body. Bright beautiful nose with lots of berries and El Dorado leather (my notes ended here)

It’s been over two years now I’ve been wanting to talk about the Fiasco. The irony in all this is that my review of this Gem of a wine has been, up to this point, a complete Fiasco!

Read more Via Romano on WineSnob