Wine Snob

November 12, 2021November 13, 2021

2017 Tannat by William + Chris Vineyards, Texas Hill Country

Tonight’s Occasion: 2017 Tannat (Hye Estate) by William + Chris Vineyards, Texas Hill Country.

Dark intense ruby color. Out of the bottle, nose is slightly restrained. This is a Tannat and as expected, that signature dry dark plum greets. This is followed closely by ripe blackberries. In the back, a buttery almost shortcake lingers interspersed with a smokey wood essence. First thing that comes to mind is “Texas Brisket!”. It’s a bit haunting in its expression. Swirling vigorously unleashes a veritable symphony of notes. Ripe dark cherries, more blackberries, a bold thick leathery essence, red vines licorice and dirt. … Oh Boy! The nose on this is AMAZING!!!

A creamy, slightly weighted viscous body greets the palate immediately. Little of the fruit carries forward other than some blackberry and black currants. A subtle bitter cola permeates. For a Tannat, it appears mild mannered at first blush. But as it breathes, dark, bold, dusty tannins start to dominate every aspect of the experience, providing a firm but loosely bound granular structure. Leather plays second fiddle. Finish?? I have no idea. Let’s ask the incessant, massive, dry, dusty tannic grip holding my parched lips shut. This is the show you came to see and you’d be foolhardy to expect anything else.

You don’t drink this wine. It drinks you. If you’re lucky, it won’t spit you out. This wine has so many years, perhaps even decades of vibrant life ahead of it. For as young as it is, it is very expressive and rich. I keep wondering what this Tannat would look like 10 years from now. This is a Gem. Get it now and forget about it. I’ll be expecting an invitation. To Chris and the entire crew at William Chris, nicely done folks!

My good friend and fellow Texan WineSnob, Jenn brought me a bottle of their Tempranillo this summer. Check out her guest review on WineSnob. After reviewing the William Chris Tempranillo on here I knew I absolutely had to visit this winemaker. not long after I was on my way to Austin, TX to explore wine country with Jenn. Our visit to William Chris did not disappoint. It exceeded my wildest expectations. The warmth, hospitality and shared enthusiasm for the art form, legacy, terroir and pride in craftsmanship was refreshing. We spent our entire day at the winery. I couldn’t have hoped for a better host than our Sommelier Francisco. He was a veritable wellspring of knowledge not just about the wines but the estate, winery, vineyards, their long history and the region at large. Oh, and the Charcuterie was to die for! Stay tuned for a WineSnob TV segment on my visit.

Explore more William + Chris wines on WineSnob.

November 10, 2021November 13, 2021

2019 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Carneros) by Corner 103, Sonoma

Tonight’s Occasion: 2019 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Carneros) by Corner 103, Sonoma CA

Crisp notes of sweet cherries and berries out of the bottle. A gentle secondary butterscotch caramel. A damp earthy leather lingers in the back. These are all key hallmarks of a faithful Sonoma Pinot. Everything is fairly restrained overall.

Body shows good balance, slightly biased towards creamy than acidic. Cherries carry over as well as butterscotch caramel, albeit slightly more intense. Thin barely noticeable tannins provide good structure. Mouth feel is soft, light if not plush. Towards the back, the body fades to more of a cola and sweet citrus expression. Transition to finish is seamless, ending with a fairly neutral palate. No spice heat or tannic grip.

This is a clean, crisp, understated if not uncomplicated Pinot. It retains good sense of place without being overly abstract to the average palate (a tricky balance). This Pinot should appeal to a broad spectrum of palates; from beginner to intermediate and advanced. In summary, this is a faithful Sonoma Pinot for all to enjoy! I like it! Great job Lloyd and and the entire crew at Corner 103!

I recently visited their tasting room while while exploring boutique artisan wineries in Sonoma and I have so say the wines match the decor, ambiance and vibe. The warm, calm modernist setting right on the square in downtown Sonoma made for a great focused and guided tasting. If you are in the Sonoma area, I highly recommend making appointment and stopping by. If you do, don’t forget to let me know your thoughts and tag me on social media.

November 6, 2021January 3, 2022

2014 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands) by Belle Glos

Tonight’s Occasion: 2014 Pinot Noir (Las Alturas – Santa Lucia Highlands) by Belle Glos, Monterey County, CA Intense, ruby color. Out of the bottle, nose is all terroir up front with an intense damp wood leather. This note is unwavering as subtle dark cherries peek through from behind the scene. As it breathes bright berry expression typical of this region pulls forward nicely. Hints of red vines licorice and soft buttery oak linger in the background. Beautiful nose. This wine is alive. Body is slightly creamy up front. A viscous body is framed by soft tannins in the form of dark cherry skins lending unobtrusive structure to this full bodied Pinot. Soft buttery oak lends a nice creamy mouth feel, further accentuating the fruit and softening the tannins. Towards the back, a warm spice heat emerges along with a firming of tannic structure. This marks the transition to finish characterized by a long slow tango between an intensifying spice heat and tightening tannic grip over a backdrop of subtle bitter cola. Both eventually settling for a truce.

This is my first Belle Glos wine. Even at 7 years of age (long for a Pinot), it feels like it could still use more time to further integrate. I recommend decanting for at least 30 minutes. It is a well built, terroir driven wine, faithful to its origins. I’m not sure what took me so long to explore their wines but I very much look forward to exploring the rest of their lineup. Nicely done Belle Glos! Explore more Belle Glos Wines on WineSnob.

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November 1, 2021January 3, 2022

2017 Grenache (Rogue Valley) by Willamette Valley Vineyards

Tonight’s Occasion: 2017 Grenache (Rogue Valley) by Willamette Valley Vineyards, Southern Oregon Intense clear ruby color. Aromatic nose with bright ripe fruit, cherries, raspberries and red vines licorice. A white pepper permeates the stage. Hints of crisp refined caramel reminiscent of neutral French oak. Body is balanced from front to back. A soft, lush, slightly weighted mouth feel greets the palate immediately, usually a mineral expression. This quickly dissipates into a thin, wispy cloud. Contrary to what the nose would suggest, it is dry. Cherry and raspberry carry forward as mere suggestions. A crisp caramel accentuates the restrained fruit. Thin, crisp tannins provide a restrained, unobtrusive but firm structure. A bold, crisp spice emerges midway and intensifies through the finish. Transition to finish is seamless, culminating in a subtle bitter tannic grip, hints of crisp caramel, and a warm spice heat. For the sensitive/advanced palate there is a touch of bacon fat so faint you’d likely miss it. Can you pick it out? Grenache is fast becoming one of my favorite varietals. As with Pinot Noir, it is highly terroir expressive. I love exploring how it channels different regions and their terroir. In this case – Southern Oregon – it presents a more subtle, nuanced even muted expression. This region is known for some very nuanced wines and tamed big varietals. This is a well executed Grenache that opens the window into this region with a view the intermediate to advanced palate should appreciate. Willamette Valley Vineyards has done a great job with this wine. Read more Willamette Valley Vineyards on WineSnob.

October 30, 2021November 7, 2021

2015 Merlot by Newsom Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Tonight’s Occasion: 2015 Merlot by Newsom Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Deep intense ruby color. Very shy nose with dry tart plum skins, a hint of honeycomb and licorice. A herbal eucalyptus note lingers in the background so faint you’d likely miss it.

Body is firm, crisp and bone dry. Tart plum skins carry over greeting the palate with a dry tension that holds firm. This tension rolls into a citrus/lime punctuated by a crisp, refined caramel. This marks the transition to finish characterized by a dry, slightly bitter blackberry and hint of red cherry. Firm, crisp tannins provide rock solid structure throughout. The palate is rendered dry of not parched.

This wine is a fine example of what can be accomplished with Merlot. It is a clean, classic, mature execution. While impeccable right now, it is nowhere near its peak. I recommend another 5 years at least. This is a Vineyard with a story. This is a a grower first before a winemaker. For generations this family has produced coveted grapes. While exploring Texas Hill Country, every winery I visited made wines with fruit from Newsom Vineyards. Their highly understated tasting room serves as a library and reference for what is truly possible. An enlightening educational experience.

Explore more Newsom Vineyards Wines on WineSnob.

October 28, 2021June 7, 2022

2017 Le Grand-Pere by Naggiar Vineyards, Sierra Foothills

Tonight’s Occasion: 2017 Le Grand-Pere (The Grandfather, Rhone Blend) by Naggiar Vineyards, Sierra Foothills, CA.

Warm nose, with ripe dark cherries, plum and berries. Together with a secondary anise this ripeness creates a red vines licorice essence. Good sense of place. This expression is typical of a faithful wine from this region. Subtle oak vanilla blends in and accentuates nicely.

Body greets with a touch of acidity lending some good tension. This is quickly smothered by ripe plum and cherry. A punch of oak vanilla further elevates the fruit, morphing into a crisp, refined caramel. Thick, bold tannins provide a slightly restrained structure but as it opens up they pull forward and dominate the experience from front to back, giving this wine’s youth away. Definitely recommend decanting. Transition to finish is seamless, characterized by blackberries, black currants, and a fine grained dusty but firm tannic grip.

This region is known for its longer ripening season. This extended hang time results in more intense fruit flavors and a bigger bolder wine overall. This is its identity. It’s sense of place. Slightly fruit forward, shows good balance. I think with more cellar time this wine should further integrate very nicely. Recommend at least 5 to 10 more years. Get yours now and lay them down.

Explore more Naggiar Vineyards on WineSnob.

October 26, 2021January 14, 2022

2019 Pinot Noir (Roger’s Creek) by Sojourn, Sonoma, CA

Tonight’s Occasion: 2019 Pinot Noir (Roger’s Creek) by Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma, CA Deep ruby color appears unfiltered. Rich aromatic nose out of the bottle with a very noticeable bright red berries and ripe red cherries. A very present earthy leather takes a close secondary note reminiscent of damp forest floor. I absolutely love this about a faithful Sonoma Coast Pinot such as this one. I find this sense of place somewhat intoxicating if not raw and rich. A sweet tertiary note lingers in the background. It’s more of a melange that creates a sweet, buttery, shortcake essence. Swirling vigorously unleashes puffs of green, herbal notes so faint you’d likely miss it. I love it! Body is balanced from front to back. Subtle acidity brings great tention which slowly morphs into a gentle, warm spice heat towards the back. Suggestion of raspberry, and red cherry carry forward. Subtle, almost unnoticeable tannins provide just enough structure. A crisp, clean caramel further softens the body to create a beautiful, slightly weighted mouth feel. A hint of bitter cola ushers in a finish characterized by a slow fade of the entire ensemble leaving the palate slightly moist. I have no idea why it took me so long to explore Sojourn wines. Their Pinot Noirs embody so much of what I love about Sonoma. Even after all this, it’s still hard to put in words. I’m excited to dive deeper into another artisan winemaker off the beaten path. Nicely done! Explore more Sojourn Wines on WineSnob.

October 25, 2021November 7, 2021

2017 GSM by Passaggio Wines, San Francisco

Tonight’s Occasion: 2017 GSM by Passaggio Wines, San Francisco CA

Deep ruby color. Bright aromatic nose with lots of red berries, raspberry, ripe strawberry and a touch of sweet mellon. A backdrop of sweet cedarwood leather, hint of eucalyptus, and red vines licorice. Yummy!

Bright body greets with a touch of acidity. This quickly gives way to a smooth silky, viscous body with hints of citrus, pomegranate and crisp caramel. Dark cherry skins provide a thin firm structure that permeates the experience. A slightly creamy mouth feel fades away leaving behind crisp tannins, a hint of cola and mild spice.

What a vibrant melodic interpretation of the iconic GSM blend. I love every single one of Cindy’s wines. Words that come to mind are: precise, crisp, subtle, rich, balanced, humble, unassuming. This blend embodies all of those. It reminds me of the Fiona GSM by Bumgarner I have previously reviewed on here.

Read more about Passagio Wines on WineSnob.

October 22, 2021November 7, 2021

2018 Pinot Noir (Twin Hills) by Reichwage Winery, Sonoma Coast

Tonight’s Occasion: 2018 Pinot Noir (Twin Hills) by Reichwage Winery, Sebastopol CA.

Clear ruby color. Slightly shy nose greets with a flutter of red cherries, raspberries and subtle cola. As it breathes a damp, driftwood emerges in the background. Swirling intensifies the nose ever so slightly. Cherries turn slightly sweet with the emergence of caramel notes. Ahhhhh that quintessential Sonoma Dirt makes an appearance along with a touch of red vines licorice.

Body is light, bright. In line with the nose, greets with a slightly crisp attack which quickly hands off to a slightly viscous body of crisp caramel, damp wood leather and bitter cola. Great soft mouth feel. Thin but firm tannins provides crisp structure from front to back. Body is bone dry. Fruit carries forward in mere suggestions of raspberry. Hints of mushroom linger in the back, so faint you’d likely miss it. After a long expression, body quickly vanishes, leaving a dry palate with cola, mushroom leather, crisp lingering tannic grip an mild spice warmth.

Everything is a mere suggestion. This wine is very subtle and nuanced in its expression. It was made in the vineyard and obsessed over in the cellar. Pinot Noir doesn’t lie. It is unforgiving. In a sense a rite of passage for a winemaker. This one is squarely for the advanced palate. More traditional Burgundian style while preserving its sense of place. It reads like an exercise in core principles. What a great, well made wine! Just beautiful…

Explore more of Max Reichwage’s wines here.

October 20, 2021January 6, 2022

2018 Pinot Noir (O’Brien) by Willamette Valley Vineyards, Oregon

Tonight’s Occasion: 2018 Pinot Noir (O’Brien, Eola-Amity Hills) by Willamette Valley Vineyards, Oregon Intense ruby color. Slightly restrained nose with crisp, slightly sweet cherries, raspberries, and a touch of pomegranate. There’s a certain faint bitter essence in the distant background. This is typical of the region and its terroir at large. I love it when a wine shows good sense of place. In this case a subtle mineral leather. Swirling vigorously adds a little more raspberry and leather. Classic. Slightly crisp greeting on the body with cherries and refined caramel reminiscent of neutral oak. A very mild sweet citrus adds great mouth feel not unlike Meyer Lemon. Crisp tannins provide unobtrusive structure. This slowly morphs into a mild spice heat as it transitions to finish. A prickly spice tingle takes over the lips as raspberries, cherries and cola quietly debate who exists the stage last. I love what these folks are doing with their wines. Their tastings are more of an education on the region and it’s wines. Execution is clean, crisp and highly terroir driven. I have a soft spot for Pinot from this region and Willamette Valley Vineyards channels that very nicely in all their wines. Read more Willamette Valley Vineyards on WineSnob.